Colorful Catania

This morning we left Catania, the second biggest city in Sicily. I remember last time how unimpressed I was with the city when we first got there. But the more time I spent there, the more I liked it. This time was even better. It is really a charming city. We wanted to visit the famous Belliniano Theater. It is really a gem of a theater. The ticket office was open when we got there, but the attendant told us it was not possible for us to tour the interior. It was closed to tourists. We tried to charm her, but she kept insisting that it was closed. Just as we were about to give up, a kind man told her that he would take us to see the interior. We walked into the cavernous auditorium and I have to say it was amazing. Then our guide told us he would turn the lights on for us. When he did, this jewel just dazzled. So beautiful and so regal. The man clearly had great pride in what had been created. Sometimes buildings and vistas dazzle me. This time, I have to say, it was the kindness of one old guy who took the time out of his busy day to show us both the warmth of the theater and of his heart. I love that.

Terrific Taormina

We also spent some time in Taormina. I have anchored in the bay there before, but never been up the hill to the town. It is one of those towns where every stone in the street and every building is perfectly set to give the appearance of a gentile life now filled with tourists that flock the streets. There is a beautiful garden built by some 19th century Scottish aristocrat who fled here after a sorted affair with the heir to the English throne. She certainly did a good job taking command of a peninsula that juts out from the rugged mountain slope.

Messina

We have sailed south through the Straights of Messina. It is always interesting to see how unsettled the water is in that area where the Ionian Sea and Tyrrhenian Sea clash together. I always think of the myths of monsters and sirens responsible for the numerous shipwrecks in this area. Now it is more the dodging of the constant ferries and ships that are the major hazards. We stayed in Messina for a couple of days. This is the first time I have stopped there. The town’s claim to fame is an enormous clock that is central to the town and central to the tourist industry. At noon, the clock comes alive. Gelded lions roar, cocks crow and angels pull the clapper of its huge bells. It takes about 20 minutes to run through this mechanical tableau to announce that noon has arrived. We strolled through the turn-of-the-century buildings on wide boulevards and climbed up the prominent hill where the duomo sits ruling over the city for a commanding panorama.

Islands off of an Island

Just off the northern coast of Sicily, rising out of the cobalt sea just north of Messina are a group of islands known as the Aeolian Islands. It is no surprise that these islands are from volcanic eruptions similar to the ones that created Sicily. And like Sicily some of them are still very much active. Stromboli is probably the most famous of the group. Its vents send up a continuous plume of gas often accompanied with spitting lava. It is at times like this that I am grateful that we are on a sailboat that can bring us to these idyllic islands. We are able to hop from one island to the other and change anchorages depending on the wind and wave direction. We sailed into a protective bay on Vulcano, the southern most island. The tall rim still smolders and spews plums of steamy gases. The smell of yellow sulphur is ever present and the black sand beaches all let you know that this is an active volcano. The next day we sail to the nearby island of Lipari. For the most part the sea floor plummets 100 feet close to shore making anchoring impossible. But we are able to find a sandy shoal close to the main town of the same name. We drop our anchor and spend a few days enjoying the amazing island cuisine and hanging out at the local sidewalk cafes. Except for the tourist shops, the town seems like a step back in history. Its stone block roads and a labyrinthine of narrow streets lined on both sides with small shops selling their wares. In 1544 pirates invaded the town murdering most of the men and enslaved most of the women. Those that were left resolved to never let that happen again. They built a strong citadel on the top of a cliff overlooking the sea that still looks like it would repel an invading army. It now houses an archeological museum and various administrative offices. After a couple of leisurely days, we head back to Vulcano this time anchoring on the leeward side of the island. We spend the afternoon soaking in the gurgling mud baths and exploring the town built around the hot springs.