Nothing Icky about Ithaca

This small island is almost attached to Cephalonia, separated only by a narrow channel. We stayed in the main port of Vathi, which has a deep bay with good protection from the winds and sea. It is a popular port for yachters and certainly caters to them. We refilled our water tanks with water delivered to the quay by an enterprising guy in a water truck You can get 100 liters for 6 euros. It sounds cheap but took about 24 euros to fill up our tanks. Most places provide water at no charge, but in Greece it is much more hit and miss. We are never sure when we will come across water again, so it was worth it.

Captain Corelli’s Cephalonia

Like many of the islands, Cephalonia has close ties to Italy. During WWII the Italians invaded and occupied these islands. When Italy surrendered to the allies, Germany sent troops to control the islands. But instead of turning them over peacefully the Italians turned on the Germans and fought them for seven days. Of the 9000 Italian troops, only 3000 survived. By personal order of Hitler, the remaining 3000 were lined up and brutally shot. Very few survived. I have been told that the old Greek women still wear black to honor the Italians that defended their island from the Germans. I am not sure that is actually true since old Greek women tend to always wear black, but it is a nice sediment. There was a nice movie made a couple of years ago about this incident called Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.

After spending a couple of days on the south part of the island in some wonderful bays, we sailed from the port town of Argostoli to the top of the island under strong winds and big waves. At the top of the island is Fiskardho, one of the few cities in the Ionians that did not fall down during the big 1953 earthquake. As a result, it has a much more authentic feel to it. A charming little town that is now mostly restaurants and tourist shops that has been converted from old homes near the waterfront. We stayed just south of the town in a quiet bay.

Zanny Zakynthos

Our first stop is the most southern of the 7 islands, Zakynthos. We anchored out in some of the southern bays, hung out at some of the beaches and spent a few days in the main town of Zakynthos where we tie up to the town quay that encircles the huge harbor. There is plenty of room for both ferries and yachters. However it is now August and everything has gotten more crowded as Europe takes its month of August off to explore Europe. The bay is so large, I was surprised when most of the quay got filled up with bumper-to-bumper boats.

After a couple of days we head north to Nickolaos, a very small town on the northeastern corner of the islands. This town’s claim to fame are the beautiful blue caves. Trying to out do Capri’s blue grotto, the caves are indeed a beautiful deep blue but just doesn’t have the pizzazz of the famous Capri grotto. It is a very small town with a couple of restaurants, a few hotels and boat tours all owned by the same family. I guess it pays to have land past down for a dozen generations. We still enjoyed a little touristic boat ride to the caves and a stop at some high cliffs for jumping and swimming. It is so hot here in August that you just have to be in and out of the water a couple of times a day.

On the western part of the island is the famous Shipwreck Beach. Perhaps the most photographed beach in all of Greece. Beautiful white sand meets turquoise blue water with dramatic cliffs crashing down to the bay. And right in the center is a sizable ship buried half in sand. We arrived fairly early in the morning and were the first ones in the bay. The wreck looked more like a Hollywood set with the ship smack dab in the center of the beach tilting, rusting and decaying perfectly. By the time we got our anchor set, the first of the tourist boats showed up. And then the invasion began. It made D-day look like a small operation. We took a few photos, but left when the crowds got just way out of hand. I am glad we got that first glimpse of the beach without anyone but the shipwreck, and us in the morning light.

An Eye on the Ionians

With good northerly winds, we head to the Ionian Islands. I think they are the most beautiful of the Greek isles. Dark green forests of cypress, pines and scrub bushes blanket the steep mountains. Deep inlet bays make for ideal refuge during the nights. White fine sandy beaches that crunch under your feet all make up these historic islands.

Ok, so here is the legend. Zeus had a mistress named Io. When Zeus suspects that his wife is on to him, he changes Io into a cow. Well Zeus’s wife wasn’t born yesterday and she figures it out. She sends a gadfly to torment Io. It is so annoying that Io plunges into the sea, hence the Ionian Sea.

There political history is similar to much of Greece. The Venetians kept them the longest and if there is an architectural theme that has survived the earthquakes over the years, it would be Venetian. Unfortunately too many earthquakes have leveled most of the old architecture and what you get is a more 1960’s theme to even the small towns. In general, not a good decade for architecture. A few of the islands did something completely different when they rebuilt. They used a lot of corrugated sheet metal. I guess they were tired of constantly picking up the stones of collapsed buildings. It may hold up better during an earthquake but it gives the town a western appearance. The corrugated metal feels more like a facade than a real building. You get this eerie feeling that you are visiting Frontierland in some theme park.

A Wonder to Behold

This was not just an athletic event, it was also a pilgrimage to the sacred site of Zeus. It was here that one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world, the colossal statue of Zeus rested in all its splendor. And for Steve, it was the completion of being last on the list of the ancient 7 wonders of the world he has visited. Not many can claim that bragging rights. I have only seen 4 of the 7 sites. I still have to see the Pyramids, Hanging Gardens of Babylon, and Alexander’s Lighthouse.

The statue of Zeus was over 39 feet tall or about the same height as a 4-story building. It was made of gold covered bronze and ivory. Zeus’s throne was made of ivory, gold, ebony and precious stones. It must have been quite a site to behold. Since the games were as much a religious festival as an athletic event it centered around pagan worship. In the middle of the games, 100 oxen were sacrificed to Zeus. Now days we just offer nachos and salsa.

Ironically it was the pagan worship that eventually caused the demise of the Olympic games. With the decline of the ancient religion, the people attended less and less. In 393 AD, the last of the games were held because Theodosius l prohibited the cult and games from gathering as a way of imposing Christianity as the state religion. Christianity had won out and the statue of Zeus was sent to Constantinople where it was eventually destroyed by fire in 475 AD.

The Glory of the Olympics

Our last port on the Peloponnesus is Katakolon. It is a small quaint 3 street town that has more than its share of souvenir stands. It is not surprising since 2 to 3 cruise ships invade here almost every day. But they don’t come for the town of Katakolon, they come to visit the ancient site of the Olympic games. We jumped on a small train that took us inland about an hour to the rambling pile or rocks that was once the organized site of the Olympic games for over 1000 years. At the height of the games between 150,000 and 200,000 people would attend. This event, held every 4 years, was so important that no matter who was fighting, a truce was honored for a month while athletes and spectators could make their pilgrimage to the games. It was a contest of athletic prowlness that only men could compete or for that matter even watch. If a woman was caught watching the games, she was thrown off a cliff to her death. Yikes, that is pretty strict ticket enforcement. In order to participate, you had to confirm that you had been training for at least 10 months and were of upright character. Only Greek citizens were allowed to participate. Because this was as much an athletic event as a spiritual event celebrating the human form, yes, all athletes performed naked. No Nike logos were to be found on the entire field. Winning an event made you a legendary hero in your hometown. It was the highest honor a human could have bestowed upon him. In fact, some of the Greek gods were legends that came out of the early Olympic games. The victors were only awarded a palm branch and olive leaf crown. It did however come with the benefit of never having to pay taxes again for the rest of your life. As the games continued, city-states would award athletes with large cash prizes as well.

The Last Finger

If you look at the Peloponnesus on a map, it looks like a big bear footprint with 3 claws and a thumb. After 3 weeks of sailing, we are on the last finger of the Peloponnesus. This coast has always been an important part of the trade route from India to Europe. Who ever controlled this coast controlled the flow of spices, silk, precious metals, gems, pearls and perfume flowing into Europe. It is why this area is covered with forts and castles and has changed control from one empire to the next more often then Madonna changes boyfriends. We have seen castles built by the French, added on to by the Venetians, and then had a tower built by the Turks.

It is also an area inhabited by Logger turtles. It is not uncommon to see a 2-foot turtle swimming in the bay. They can become quite friendly and some restaurants regularly clean their fish at the waters edge so these big playful turtles will swim right next to the waterfront while you are having dinner.

The Warriors of Sparta

In the heart of the Peloponnesus, just north of Mistras is the area where the Spartans built their community. It is a rugged and mountainous region with rich fertile valleys. In this ancient civilization there were three distinct classes: the peasants, the tradesmen/artisans and the landowners/warriors. Those chosen to be warriors were forbidden to work for the rest of their life. Training constantly the art of war would start at the age of 7. They ate and slept communally with the barest essentials. Hence the modern term “spartan conditions”. At age 20, all of that training would be put use by a series of initiation tests. Part of that ultimate test included being flogged within an inch of your life. The military officers would abandon the warrior in training in the wilderness and instruct them to kill any peasant they came across who were outside after dark. It was not unheard of for the trainee to die in the initiation process. And if the testing didn’t kill you, the fighting probably would. In battle, you were expected to give your life without hesitation. In 580 B.C. only 300 of these fierce warriors stood up against the entire Persian army. Isn’t there a Hollywood movie about this famous battle? After holding off the Persian army, Sparta’s reputation as warriors grew to heroic proportions. For centuries it was thought that a Spartan would never be taken alive.

Mystra’s Mysteries

We continue up the coast until we get to the top of the second finger and tie up in the Kalamata harbor. It is a large industrial city with not much charm but we did manage to find a very good Gyros restaurant. It is also the nearest port town to Mystra, one of the most important cities during the Byzantine period. We rented a car and drove about 45 minutes inland near the city of Sparta. The drive wound through steep verdant cliffs with spectacular scenery. Mistras was once the Byzantine province capital and it thrived during this time period. While a lot of the town is a pile of rocks where once great mansions rose up, it still has some beautifully preserved Byzantine churches some of which are still plastered and painted with religious icons in their interiors. There are also large public buildings and a large palace that is still standing. A lot of these structures are going through restoration, but the outsides attest to their once great grandeur.

Coolest Cave Ever

We continued to sail down the first finger of the Peloponnesus and then up the second. About half way up the second finger is Diros. Its claim to fame is perhaps the most magnificent cave anywhere in the world. The cave winds through the limestone cliffs and total over 14 kilometers of mapped tunnels. If that is not cool enough, most of the bottom is water, so to view the cave, you climb into a low wooden boat that floats through brilliant white and golden stalactites and stalagmites, glittering crystal drapes and ceilings that look like the underside of a gem-studded pin cushion. Most of the passages are narrow and you have to keep your head low to avoid being smacked on the forehead by a stunning stalactite. I always find caves amazing works of nature, and this one is over the top spectacular.

Choosing the Right Rock

Spending as much time sailing the coasts of the Mediterranean, you begin to understand what medieval cities wanted when they choose their locations. They liked access to the sea for easy trade, but they also knew that being near the ocean invited pirates and foreign invaders to your doorstep. So the next most important thing they looked for is a place where steep cliffs would make attacking the city very difficult. Monemvasia was built on such a location. Shear parched red rock cliffs 900 feet high on all sides and a large plateau at the top of those cliffs made a perfect location. To make this a little more inviting, it is an island that is connected to the mainland by a small narrow bridge. Throw up a castle and build a rock wall around the edge and you got yourself a city that will grow and prosper. The first fortress was built at Monemvasia around the 6th century BC. Its heyday however was during the Byzantine period between 1263 and 1394. But sometimes that prosperity is also the downfall of a city. Everyone wants a piece of that action. So like most important cities, it was conquered by the French, Turks, Venetians, the Pope, then Venetians, Turks, Venetians and Turks again. Kind of exhausting huh. I sometimes wonder how prosperous the world would have been if greed and power were not so woven into the history of civilization.

Changing of the Crew

We say a fond farewell to Jean Michael, Raul and Scott at Navplion. They came on our boat as passengers and as often happens, left as good friends. Later that afternoon Peter from San Francisco and Daniel from Italy arrive on the bus from Athens and begin their time with us. It is our only back-to-back charters this summer. We usually like a little time between but this is just how it worked out. Navplion is a beautiful town with large marble paved plaza, a couple of well lit castles on the hill and charming side streets with balconies covered in flowers and fragrant vines. Restaurant tables spill out into the alleys and the smell of roasting lamb waffles in the air. We spent the night in Navplion restock our galley at the local grocery store, and then could not resist taking our new passengers back to our enchanted bay.

Coasting up the Coast

We continued north up the coast of the first finger of the Peloponnesus, stopping at the island of Spetsai and then settling into a beautiful bay just south of Navplion. Sometimes you find a spot that you just want to hang out in. This was one of those bays. We ended up spending a couple of nights there before heading for the town marina. One of those nights was July 4th which we celebrated with Jean Michael who is French, Raul who is from Madrid and Scott who is from Santa Cruz. We had a small barbeque on the beach complete hamburgers, watermelon, Greek potato salad and ending with sparklers. At night, away from city lights, the stars provide their own sparkle. But what was really unexpected is swimming in the bay in the darkness. As your hands and feet move through the ink black water, glittery phosphorescent plankton light up around you. It really is an Avatar experience with these tiny sparkles of light encircles your hands. It feels like you are in a Disney film where with the move of a magic wand, light shimmers.

Idhra/Hydra However you spell it, it spells chaos.

Sometimes when we are approaching a harbor, it feels like you are sailing right into a postcard. You want time to just stop so you can soak in all the beauty of the place. Everything seems placed by some grand design to lure you into a sense of peace and beauty. Idhra is one of those places. We came in to the port in the late morning. The port is small and it didn’t take long for the marina to fill up completely. Then the harbor theater began. It turns out, this is a very popular place for Atheans to spend the weekend. Just when you thought you could not possibly squeeze in another boat, two more would come. And they wouldn’t take “no room at the inn” for an answer. When there was not enough room between the boats to slip a razor blade between them, the boats started tying up to the bow of boats that were docked on the quay. So another row of boats managed to slip into the harbor. And then the big boys started to arrive. I am talking the mega yachts that would pretty much take out the entire port if they were to come into the harbor. They dock on the outside of the harbor breakwater toward the sea where the ocean floor was very deep and the spots completely exposed to the ocean elements. I guess if you have a big enough yacht, you don’t worry about possible weather conditions.

Evidently Idhra is the place to see and be seen on the weekends. The town was teaming with wealth and shops that cater to that cliental. In the morning you had to coordinate with the boat that was parked in front of you to get out. And the anchors were tangled in the middle of the harbor like a plate of spaghetti. Each anchor had to be pulled up in just the precise order to avoid too much of a mess. We loved the town but were glad to make our escape to somewhere sane.

Popping Around the Peloponnesus

For the next month we plan to sail the Peloponnesus peninsula of Greece. One reason we chose to do this is because it is July and the hordes of tourists are descending on the Mediterranean. The Peloponnesus is a less traveled area. The other reason is we have heard so much about the beauty of this area.

Our first stop to Epidhavros does not disappoint you. It is a quiet new port with travernas and a small yacht harbor. Yeah really small. Our boat took up the whole outside quay of the harbor. The water was so clear you could see it teaming with schools of fish. Locals hang out until the wee hours of the morning making a paste of sardines and casting their lines into the water. Fish reward them for their efforts and they leave with dinner in a pail of saltwater. This port is a jumping off port to visit the ancient city of Ephidhavros whose crowning monument is a big 14,000 seat outdoor theater that is so intact; it is still regularly used for events. The ancient draw of this city was the beginning healing arts of medicine. In ancient times it was a sanctuary of the Askeplion religious cult dedicated to healing the sick. After paying your offering, you would enter the sacred temple, drink of the holy water and then sleep on the floor. During the night, the gods would take the sickness from your body if you were worthy.

Heading to Athens

The weather has been calm and water flat as we head to Athens. We anchored out at the foot of the temple of Poseidon as it towered on the edge of the steep point. As the full moon rose behind it, the scene was transformed into a beautiful postcard advertising all that is beautiful about Greece. The next morning we headed to Aegina, a small island right off the coast of Athens. We prefer it to going into the crazy charter filled ports of Athens itself. I spent my 60th birthday there which was both exciting and a bit sobering. How did all those years happen so fast and why did the years leave behind all these wrinkles. We sailed over to Athens to pick up a couple who are chartering with us for the week because Greece is having a one day ferry strike in protest to the government austerity cuts. Scott, a friend from home also joined us. So the 5 of us set out for our first forays into the Peloponnesus.

Mykonos

Far from deserted, this island is crammed full of tourists fresh off the numerous cruise ships that have made this island a travelers favorite. Like the sunbathers oiled bodies, this town has created a slick tourist destination. Just the right balance of sheik shops, abundant restaurants and thumping discos gives you plenty to do from morning to the wee hours of morning a day later. And just as slick are the smart beaches patterned with colorful umbrellas and coordinating lounge chairs. I want to be repelled by the commercialization of it all, but somehow I am still entranced by its whitewashed beauty and inviting shops selling a level above the normal tourist trinkets. We spent 4 days here mostly at the golden sand beaches, We do take a day stocking up with provisions at an island that has a grocery store bigger than the normal mom and pop closets with a cheese counter in the back, fill up our water and diesel tanks courtesy of the local tanker trucks that service the marina.

Landing on a Butterfly

We chart our course to the out of the way island of Astypalea, a butterfly shaped Greek island that sits alone bridging the Dodecanese and the Cyclades. Brightly blooming Bougainville and whitewashed houses wind up the hills and steep cliffs of this butterfly’s wings. We tied up to the quay and spent the day climbing to the top of the hills to the old fortified village that crowns the mountaintop where the walls of the outer houses protected its inhabitants for centuries. This small village was able to withstand sieges by pirates and invading armies since the 15th century, but the castle fortress was no match for a powerful earthquake in 1956. Now mostly crumbling rock walls of this historic village quietly tell the story of its once great past.

We follow the wind to a couple of more islands, Amorgos and Donoussa where our anchor digs deep into the sandy bottoms of pristine bays with few signs of civilization. We are surrounded by sapphire blue water and fish swimming around this intrusion into their sanctuary. A herd of goats gather at the edge of the island as if they are expecting a ferry to aid in their escape to greener pastures. But no ferry comes. The water is warm and I like to snorkel through it looking at the richness of the ocean floor. I spot a beautiful large shell, but it is just deep enough to escape becoming a souvenir. Maybe it is fortunate that we sometimes are content enough to just look at the beauty of nature from a distance.

Making the Most of Samos

We spent a week in Samos, a Greek island right off the coast of Turkey. It holds a long history of greatness and prosperity during the Hellenistic period. So it has lots of ruins scattered under all the dirt of later civilizations. We went to a museum and saw just a magnificent stone statue of a young athlete that was over 15' tall. Incredible. It is by far the biggest articulated statue I have ever seen. The statue makes Michelangelo's David look like a miniature in size. Most of the statue is still intact which is also amazing that it has survived so many years. Originally there were two statues, but not much is left of the second one. It is hard to believe that they were carved around 500 BC.

We stayed long enough in the little port city to get to know some of the people in the town. That connection always seems to be more important then the local tourist attractions. The boat was tied up right on the quay in the center of town. At this port we were the biggest sailboat. People would walk by, take pictures, and peer in to get a closer look. Many stopped to chat and ask us where in America we were from. We got to know a few of the locals. I knew we were the talk of the town when I went to the gas station to arrange some diesel to be delivered to the boat. He asked for the name of the boat and I told him the catamaran on the quay, he stopped writing and said, of course, I know the boat. I will deliver the gas at 1pm.

Two guys invited us to lunch at their home. One was from Iraq. His brother was assigned to protect the judge that sentenced Sadam Hussein to death. It ended up also being a death sentence to his entire family. All murdered by those that are fighting against the occupation. So he fled the country and has been wandering around without a country and without a family for the past 6 years. It was very touching as he proudly showed us photos of his brother. The other guy is half Jewish, half Palestine and grew up in Algeria. He spoke 4 languages, but English was not one of them. There was a lot of back and forth as his friend interpreted his friends life story. They both avoid politics and just live their lives generously sharing it with others. We were the recipients of that generosity eating oversized helpings of pasta and hot dogs. A humble meal but one they made sure we had more than we could possibly eat. The next day, Robert, a friend from Munich joins us and we are off again for new adventures

The Dodecanese

The Dodecanese are a crescent chain that follows the southeaster Turkish coast curving west towards Crete. These twelve islands banded together to protest about being deprived of their special tax benefits granted to them by the Turks in the 16th century. These people don’t forget a thing. Like most of this part of the world, they have flipped back and forth between foreign occupiers more than a pinball in a high point game. The Venetians, Genoese, Romans, Turks and a few other countries have all occupied this part of the world at one time or another. As a result, some of the islands look more Italian, for example, than they do Greek. Simi, our first stop is one of those islands. With charming homes all with pediments that give them a strong Italian look rise up the steep slopes of the harbor. It looks a bit like Positano, Italy. At night when the sun goes down, the lights seem to glow all around the quay that the town is built around. Doug, one of our charters was celebrating his birthday. So we got all of the surrounding boats to sing happy birthday to him while we lit a sparkler stuck in a lemon of the appetizer tray. He was politely embarrassed but took it in fun. We had a wonderful meal at a restaurant recommended by our new floating neighbors and then came back to the boat for a special dessert on the moonlit bay.

We spent a couple of nights on the island of Nisiros, one of two islands in the Aegean Sea created by volcanoes, Santorini being the other volcanic island. It is an almost square island with a steaming center crater that attests to its former eruption that blew the top off of the mountain. There are still steaming vents and boiling mud pots in the center. It is said that two gods were fighting with each other. One of the gods scooped up a hunk of mud and threw it on the other who got buried with it. The god that lost the mud slinging fight is still trapped beneath its surface and boy is he mad. He is still venting steam from the incident. We walked on the bottom surface of the volcano floor smelling the sulfur and checking out the crystallized openings of the vents that lead so far down to the depths of the earth being careful to not step too close to the small openings that have a tendency of collapsing.

Castles and Crosswinds

We sailed to Greece via express wind and made it to Rhodes in the early afternoon. There is a bay we like to anchor in, so we headed for our favorite spot. I went to the port authorities, customs, immigrations and port police to be stamped, certified, checked and stapled. I came out the other end surprisingly well. Not too bad this time. I think I am getting better at this. We ate within the castles walls in the evening as the sun set over this medieval town. The next day we moved the boat to the marina through the imaginary legs of the ancient Colossus that once straddled the harbor entrance. One of the 7 wonders of the ancient world, the giant statue to Helios was over 107 feet tall. It remained standing for only 56 years before being destroyed by an earthquake in 226 B.C. The original ancient harbor wall is still there however, keeping the force of the sea from hurling itself on defenseless boats like it has for centuries.

The marina itself is pretty small and antiquated. Boats are required to throw their anchor out in the middle of the harbor and back their sterns up to the quay to tie off. It is a pretty good plan unless the wind is blowing strongly from the side which was exactly what was happening. We had to set the anchor three times before we got a solid hold. Everyone on our side of the marina was having problems keeping their anchors set properly. We were also all concerned that we just laid our anchor on top of someone else’s anchor and in the morning chaos will break out as each boat tries to leave the port, pulling up his neighbors anchor along with his own. So we discuss it between the captains to coordinate departure times. First anchors laid are the last ones out. Typical of Greek ports, there was also no water or power. Fortunately, with the solar panels, needing to plug in to shore power is no longer important. But we did need some water to wash off the boat and refill our tanks. So we linked a bunch of hoses from the neighboring boats and we all got water. There is always a very co-operative feeling amongst boaters. We all know that we do better working together than trying to do it on our own. In the afternoon, we picked up 4 guys for our first charter of the summer.

Turkey and the Stuf-fin in side.

I have been in Turkey for over a month now. While I haven’t seen everything, I have seen enough to make a few comments. First off, Turkey is nothing like I expected it to be. I did not expect Turkey to be covered in a carpet of pine forests and lush green vegetation. The physical beauty of Turkey was totally unexpected on my part. The waters are deep rich blue and clear as a cut crystal. The terrain is rugged and colorful with steep cliffs plunging into the ocean in dramatic sweeps. And when you look a little deeper you find natural formations like Pamukkai that nature was willing to take centuries to create.

The people of Turkey are genuinely friendly and good natures. Like the natural inviting beauty of the landscape, it is in their nature to invite you in and offer you a cup of chi whenever they can think of a reason. Sit down, relax, and let’s spend some time together. This is also a can-do country. Every man dreams of opening his own business. I get the feeling that they love what they do most of the time. And if you need something, the answer is always yes. We needed a part for our new engine to be able to flush out the salt water. So we found a dealer and asked for the part. They didn’t have one in stock and Istanbul would take too long to get the part. So the storekeeper sends his son around the corner to a machine shop. Sure we can make that part for you. Have some chi and be back here in a half an hour. It ended up costing less than the original part to have one frabricated.

Yes, chi or tea is the national pastime. The Turks make the British look like amateurs when it comes to teatime. There is a whole tea concession in each neighborhood. Runners come out with trays of tea and deliver it to the shopkeepers and their clients on a regular basis. Any time you have to wait, it is time for tea. It just instantly appears like magic. And since a lot of foreigners don’t care for the traditional chi, they have come up with apple tea which is more like hot apple cider. While it is regularly served to tourists, no self-respecting Turk would drink the stuff.

Their willingness to help each other is also ever-present. When you are in a shop where they don’t speak English, the owner sends for a shop owner down the street who leaves his store unattended so he can help translate for his neighbor. If the shopkeeper has to go somewhere during the day, the store is left open. If a customer waders in, the neighbor comes over to help you with your purchases. Sometimes I am just confuses who owns what store. The other day we needed some parts from an electronic store. He had some of the parts but walked across the street to another store to complete the order. No big deal. Someone on the block is bound to have all you need. The Turks believe working hard will bring them success in life. Each man has a dream and is pursuing it with vigor and determination.

Turkey is a place you could come and never leave. Last night at dinner we were talking to a British couple that have been here for 14 years. They told us of a friend that intended to stay a fortnight here. He has had 5 farewell parties to go back to England and is still here 5 years later. I have a feeling this story is not unique. We plan to come back here next year and spend even more time exploring Turkey. I will be sad to go. We leave for Rhodes tomorrow morning. Hoping for good winds and calm seas.

Don’t Spare the Rod, Catch a Fish

We made it to Gocek, a delightful city deep in a fantastic bay. Lots of wonderful anchorages to spend nights looking up at diamond studded skies and down to the depths of the ocean floor. We anchored close to town and knocked off a few more items on our “have to have” list. Steve purchased a rod and reel and has visions of catching blue fin tuna for dinner. I knew I had no chance of catching anything, but opted for a little fish trap. I am going to try and see what we pull up when we anchor out. Since mine cost a tenth of what Steve’s cost, we are waiting to see which one of us hauls in dinner first.

We spent a couple of days anchored in the bay and then did a sail by visit to Fethiye. From there we continued southeast to a quiet bay for the evenings anchorage.

Ruins, Tombs of Kings and Pigging Out

Ekincik Bay is a great place to anchor out while visiting Dalyan. This area was first settled long before Christ decided to come to earth. Caunos was settled by the Lycians and thrived for centuries. But like so many ancient ports, it eventually silted up by the river that still runs through the ancient harbor and time moved on along with the population. There is still an outline of a city done in ancient stone block with public baths, temples and ancient streets that only hearken to the glory that was once part of this area. It kind of reminds me of when someone is murdered and they outline around the body of what was once a a live person. The stones outline where once was a live vibrant city filled with people and commerce.

We took a water taxi further up the river to the town of Dalyan, which is the modern day replacement. Doesn’t have quite the charm, but there are plenty of restaurants and tourist shops. Right across the river are the tombs of long forgotten kings whose last resting spots were carved out of the solid rock cliffs. These imposing structures look like grand buildings with towering columns that only lead to burial chambers long since looted by enterprising not so royal subjects. They are quite imposing and hey if you are going to die, you might as well go out in style.

Right around the bend of the river are mud baths fed by hot sulfur springs. And yes you are promised, if you soak in them long enough you loose 20 years. But they never say how long it takes for that to actually happen. I think we stayed long enough to only knock off a few hours of aging. It was still fun rolling in the mud like a couple of happy pigs and letting the mud cake and crack all over our skin.

Marvelous Marmaris

We went back to Marmaris and anchored out right near the center of town. This is a town where you can get anything made for a very reasonable price. Our big purchase was a new outboard for our tender. Up until this point I have been perfectly happy with oaring to shore. But with more people coming aboard, and with more anchoring, we decided it was finally time to join the machine age. It does make it convenient to zip around the marina a little more and take our bikes ashore. After a couple of days, we finally tear ourselves away from Marmaris and head southeast to Ekincik Bay.

Not Bored with Bodrum Yet

The winds pick up again and we are flying toward Bodrum. We spend a couple of days there working out internet for the boat. Yeah! The winds are quite gusty so we decide to spend the night in the marina. We ride our bikes through the city getting some errands done and revisiting some of the highlights. Then we are off again to the well-protected bay of Knidos. On the way, we had some dolphins come swim with us. These fish are such social animals. They swam at the bow of the boat back and forth for about 20 minutes before bidding us a final farewell. Kindos was once one of the Dorian Hexapolis, the six cities of the Dorian confederacy. Roman ruins scatter all around the bay. You can see the skeleton of the once grand city homes and public buildings peaking through the soil. The big theater is still very easily recognized. Before the sun dropped, I dove off the boat and enjoyed swimming around in the waters so clear you can easily see to the bottom.

A Slice of Turkey with an English Accent

We finally tore ourselves away from Kusadasi and headed to Altikum. The wind could not have been better as we sliced through the water at close to 10 knots. By early afternoon we were anchored in the protective bay of Altikum. I cooked a dinner of lemon chicken and rice, flipped on the mooring light and took the tender to the shore. This town is designed for partying. Lots of clubs, restaurants and discos pulsate their music onto the streets. Owners try to suck you into their establishments by trying to befriend you. Once again, “Where are you from” becomes common dialog as we walk the streets. But this time, it is spoken with a distinct British accent. Some restaurants have various shows going on. I liked the 5 young Turks break dancing. Nothing like seeing a couple of guys spinning on their heads an rotating on one hand to get you to watch in fascination. We are pulled into a restaurant when the host tells us we are the first Americans to ever visit his establishment. Well not sure if that is true, but at least it is a new line. We start talking to a couple of British women there and they tell us that this town is a popular magnet for the Brits. Lots of them buy condos and make this a popular English vacation destination. They order the traditional testi kebapi, which is a meat and vegetable stew with a mushroom and onion sauce cooked in a sealed terracotta pot. The dish comes out in flames that die down and then the top is theatrically sliced off with a bigger than needed flat sword.

Cotton Castles of Turkey

I met up with Steve again and exchanged notes of what we did the past week. He raved about Pamakala with its stunning calcium pools. I decided to spend one more day in Kusadasi and check them out. Pamakala is about 3 hours inland. So I signed up for a tour that would pick me up at the marina in the morning. On the way to Pamakala, we drove through traditional villages where the residents still make their way through life in rual farms. On the roofs of some of the houses were glass bottles cemented right into the ridgeline. The guide explained that the number of bottles represented the number of unmarried daughters living there. So if you had 5 daughters, there would be 5 bottles on the roof. When a young man wished to marry one of the daughters, he had to take a rock and break one of the bottles to signify that he was committing to marrying her and sharing his life with her. Not sure what happens if he accidently breaks two bottles at the same time.

Pamakala which means cotton castle is a town that predates the Romans. It has always been a place where people came to be healed by the calcium rich pools. Because a lot of sick people came here, there are also a lot of graves. Most are stone sarcophagus that I learned is Greek for meat eating rock. Later, whole families built mausoleums that were much more substantial. A lot of the stonework is still intact. On up the hill we get a glimpse of the white pools. Over the centuries the calcium has been deposited in such quantities that it looks like freshly fallen snow. The whole hillside is a washed in white formations that cascade down the hill. The ancient pools flow from one to the other to create a series of waterfalls stepping down the hill. The calcium was hard as stone as we walked through them with bare feet. The whole experience did have a healing feeling. From there the bus took us all to another set of mineral pools and a big buffet lunch of traditional Turkish food. These mineral pools were made from iron deposits. Their rich burnt orange pools flowed with scalding hot water gushing out of the hillside that with each consecutive pool cooled to a more tolerable level. It is said that by soaking in them you become 20 years younger. I didn’t put my head in any of them, but I have to say, my feet are looking quite good.

The final stop was an onyx factory. They did a demonstration on how they make onyx works of art. The artisan put a block of onyx on a lathe and within literally minutes honed out an onyx egg. It took just a few minutes and about 5 grades of sandpaper to smooth it into a polished rock egg. I didn’t realize how fast the whole process was. From there we made our way back on the bus and back to the marina. A full day of sightseeing. Are you exhausted yet?

The Edifices of Ephesus

We pulled into the thriving town of Kasadaski, the best port to visit the ancient city of Ephesus. Cruise ships assault this town on a constant basis. And the town has responded by putting up a solid defense of souvenir shops and rug stores. When you walk through the bazaars, storeowners constantly are calling out asking where you are from. They are naturally friendly but sometimes a bit aggressive in trying to lure you into their shops. You soon learn that a quick smile but continue to look straight ahead is the only way to maneuver through the maze of tourist traps.

Just a short bus ride from here is the ancient city of Ephesus. Yeah that same city Paul wrote those letters to that made their way into the Bible. John also spent time here and legend has it that he brought Mary, the mother of Jesus, here to live out her final days. There is a little home nearby where she was allegedly to have lived. John is suppose to be buried nearby in a tomb that is surrounded by an ancient Basilica of St John fallen in ruin all around his final resting place. What is known for sure is that the city of Ephesus was once a major metropolis with a population of around 200,000 inhabitants. The ruins attest to its former glory. I think it is one of the biggest ruins ranking easily with Pompeii and Herculean in size and grandeur. Lots to look at and learn about as you walk the broad marble streets of this once great city. Ephesus eventually declined because the harbor finally silted up for good. By then, a new power in the region, the Byzantines, took over and the city was eventually abandoned after a few earthquakes hurried the process along. It is now about 40km inland as the river continued to deposit thick layers of silt between it and the sea. This was the jumping off port for Jordan and Candice as they make their way to the airport and continued their journey to Dubai.

Apollo’s Little Place

Our next port of call is the small town of Altinkum. It is the sleepy little village that is the jumping off point to visit nearby Didyma, the location of the Temple of Apollo. Darisu of Persia destroyed the original temple around 494 B.C. It lay in ruin until Alexander the Great arrived around 300 B.C. This magnificent sacred site just missed being one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world by a couple of columns. The temple of Artimus near Ephesus beat Apolllos temple by 7 columns. While it lost out to that fame, it seems this site got the last laugh because it is way more intact today than the temple of Artimus. A bad earthquake ultimately destroyed Apollo’s temple in the 15th century.

Castles and Underwater Treasures

Bodrum is a thoroughly enchanting town. The core of which is a beautiful complete castle build by that band of knights of St John. Evidently they set up a branch office here in Turkey from Rhodes. Now the castle contains treasures from the ocean. A museum that has collected vases, glass pieces, anchors, dishes and other artifacts from the unfortunate demise of sunken ships. We roamed around the grounds accompanied by a couple of strutting peacocks. This is a stopping point definitely worth checking out. I finally figured how those vases with the pointed bottoms worked. They store them together in the hull of the ships interlocking and nesting them together. Since they are mostly used for transporting, it is not necessary to set them on a table. It is more like tiny container boxes of centuries past. We anchored out and slept to the beating of the local discos into the night.

Turkey with all the Trimmings

The first day, Jordan and Candice were planning to take a day trip ferry to Rhodes. So they got up early and headed to the little bus station at the marina entrance. I stayed on the boat to do a little more prep work. But just as I was getting into the job, I get a call from Jordan. Candice didn’t think she would need a passport for the little trip across the channel. I assured them it was mandatory. The Greeks and the Turks would never let free flow between their borders. So I jumped into a taxi in hopes of catching them before the ferry left. I got there in plenty of time because we found out the ferry only goes to Rhodes on Mondays and Wednesdays. So Jordan and Candice ended up renting a motor scooter and exploring the entire peninsula while I returned to the boat. It ended up being a fun day for them as they visited water falls, small villages where traditional clothing is still being worn, a little town that still makes the wooden luxury sailing Glocks and just driving through the pine forests that look more like lake Tahoe than what people normally think of as Turkey.

The next day we set sail early in the morning headed for Datca. Datca is a sleepy little village that has some resort feel to it. After our first day sailing we decided to pull up to the town quay. We dropped the anchor and backed into the stone wall that has been used for centuries to welcome boats from around the world. With a little instruction and a few fumbles, Jordan and Candice managed to throw the lines to helpful natives on shore and tie up the boat for the night. For our first docking things went pretty smoothly. After a little dinner aboard, we made the leap to land and wandered around the charming town. The streets were filled with merchants and restaurants. We bought some desserts from a pastry shop and a few souvenirs to cement the remembrance of this little town.

The next day we left in the early quiet of morning. I like sailing before the sun rises high in the sky. Often the water is glass smooth and the quietness of it all sooths the soul. This time of year a sweatshirt and jogging pants are enough to keep the brisk morning at bay. But before too long, we are peeling those off in favor of shorts and a tee shirt. As we turn the boat north around the peninsula, the winds pick up and we unfurl the white sails. There is nothing like a strong breeze and turning off the motor to get my blood excited.

Back on the Boat

All the trauma instantly melted away as I stepped aboard our sailing home. It feels so good to be back aboard. The boat is no worse for wear over the winter season. While it is a bit dirty, it is nothing a bucket of soap and a scrub brush can’t fix. So for the next couple of days we scrub, wax, sweep, dust and shake out. We went to the local market to get some new supplies and are ready to set sail for a new adventure. That night, Steve leaves for a little exploring of his own. We will catch up with him at Ephesus. My son, Jordan and his wife, Candice step aboard. We plan to spend about 5 days heading to Ephesus

Stamped, Signed, Delivered

While we were surprised how easily it was to get them on the plane and through London, our nightmare began when we tried to get them through customs in Turkey. We waited for our baggage to come off the plane and when the last piece of luggage looped around the belt, none of our luggage was to be seen. Just when that acid reflex was starting to build up deep inside of me, this nice woman came over to us in broken English that had enough recognized words to give us a clue that we were to follow her. We tagged along to the brand new international terminal. You could still smell the damp concrete that had been poured not that long ago. My heart leaped as I saw our lone items regurgitated from the plane in this lonely terminal. We were virtually the only passengers in the entire structure. So we gathered things up and took them to customs to screen. We explained our prize solar panels and they told us we would have to get a special paper from the customs office before we could take them. With a full smile on his face and a look of hopefulness, it didn’t seem like too big of problem. To save you a very grueling torturous story from totally depressing you, 12 hours later we had been stamped, signed, approved, 200 euro fees paid, stamped again and when we though it might be all over, stamped again and interviewed. I am positive I met every bureaucrat in the entire city of Dalaman only one of which spoke just a little English. Ok, I am still traumatized by the whole event. If you can’t tell, then I should have given you more horrific information into the whole affair.

Summer 2010, Back in the Mediterranean

After spending a cold wet winter in San Francisco, we are back to the Mediterranean. It feels so good to be back. After a little delay caused by the volcano in Iceland that grounded all flights into Europe for a week, we left San Francisco on April 24^th and a grueling flight later, made it to England. I am still waiting for the transporters promised to us by Star Trek. Until then, I guess my lot is to be stuffed into economy class with the rest of the herd. We stayed a couple of nights on the banks of the Thames at Rob and Dave’s condo. What a luxury to have such a beautiful place to stay. We spent a day wandering through the Tate Modern and meandering through the streets crowded with people and history. I love London. The next day we jumped aboard our magic carpet to Istanbul and after a 9 hour layover, (yeah pretty much as horrible as it sounds) we flew the final leg of our trip to Dalaman.

Along with our prized possessions from the states, we were carrying 2 solar panels with us. I am excited about having solar on the boat. It will give us much more flexibility and independence when we anchor out. So now we are even greener, the latest buzz thing to be. But it was not without a lot of pain and suffering.

London Bridges Falling Down

Sure I have passed through this world-class city but I have never spent time here. Steve’s friends Rob and Dave let us stay at one of their condos right on the Thames that they were not using. Right out our balcony we were surrounded by century old warehouses that have been unloading cargo since the old sailing ships ruled the sea. Now the warehouses are mostly fashionable residences owned by those that can afford the spectacular views. We used the same waterway by jumping on a catamaran that swiftly takes us to the center of London. Even though it is the first time I have spent time in London, everything strangely looks familiar. It is De Ja Vue all over again. There is Big Ben, and the parliament building, Westminster Abbey, and down the street is Buckingham palace. This is the London that Mary Poppins flew over with her umbrella and Peter Pan lead Wendy and her brothers by the hand as they flew above, on their way to Neverland. The closest we got to flying over the city is a ride on the Millennial Eye. And how can you not visit London without seeing the crown jewels. You gotta love these hunks of precious gems as big as a bar of soap that have been crowning royalty for centuries. We wander up and down the tower of London where Anne Boleyn and Mary, Queen of Scotts, lost their heads. It was like walking through a movie set. I was a bit disappointed to find out that Piccadilly Circus was no circus at all, but just means a circular road where several roads come together. Not a clown in site. And really, Buckingham Palace looks more like some boring government accounting building than a royal palace. I guess the inside is supposed to be pretty nice, but we were not invited in.

The Magic Carpets of Istanbul

We spent a couple days visiting the ancient city of Constantinople, where east meets west. This is a city that was the seat of Christianity until the Turks invaded and imposed Muslim rule. Beautiful iconic gold mosaic Christian domed churches got plastered over and the Muslim images painted in bright vivid colors. When these two major religions meet, it is hard to decide which one should be shown. Do you peel off the plaster that was added to the ceilings when the church was turned into a mosque to reveal the ancient Christian artwork? Or do you keep it the way it has been for centuries with the wonderful Islamic paintings.

The streets of Istanbul are crowded and the bazaars are overflowing with exotic handmade goods. Precious spices of deep rich colors and textures are displayed in mounds on top of wooden barrels. Old men stand shoulder to shoulder on the bridge that crosses the Bosporus river throwing their lines into the water below hoping to pull dinner out of the rough waters below like they have for centuries. Yet there is also something very modern about this city. Few women wear the traditional berka and I am told that those that do are probably visitors from Saudi Arabia. Hamans are sprinkled throughout the city where men and sometimes women gather to spend the afternoon on heated marble slabs pouring cool water over themselves as they discuss the important and not so important issues of the day. Carpet store owners suck you into their shops and offer you ceremonial tea to keep you there while they talk knots and thread count of these magical hand woven carpets. And the sounds of the city also let you know you are in a much different country as the muezzins stand atop the minaret towers that spike from the numerous mosques calling all faithful Muslins to prayer. It is quite loud and they start their calls early in the morning way before you are even considering getting out of bed. As I left this city, my only thought was how soon could I come back here. I am looking forward to my return in April.

Trekking to Turkey

It is just a couple hours’ sail from Rhodes to Turkey. We head to Marmaris, which is a deep bay surrounded in lush green trees and jagged rock outcrops. It is so verdant that I am surprised the difference between the Turkish coast and the rocky arid Greek islands we have been sailing through. We spend our time getting the boat ready for winter and filing all of the government papers necessary to be in Turkey. The marina is one of the largest in Europe with acres of boats drydocked. They are parked so close to each other that it looks like a Walmart parking lot. There are two large cranes pulling boats constantly out of the water. It never stops. They don’t call it dry docking, they call it “having your boat on the hard”. The date they put the boat back in the water is called your splash date. The boating community is quite close here. We are there for a little over a week before flying to Istanbul.

Road to Rhodes, Our last Greek Isle

One more stop takes us to the Island of Rhodes. Its claim to fame in the ancient world was the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the original Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The statue represented the sun god Helios, which stood 107 feet tall at the harbor entrance. Ships would sail into the harbor through its legs. You can still envision where the statue stood, but nothing is left of it. After it was destroyed in an earthquake in 226 BC the bronze was sold for scrap.

What makes Rhodes unique in the world today is it’s medieval town that still thrives inside the fortress of the stone walls built in the 14^th century by the Knights of St John. With twelve feet thick walls and a mote surrounding it, the city was protected for centuries while other islands were conquered. At its zenith it had a population of over 40,000 residents. Maybe what is more amazing is there are still 10,000 permanent residents that are living in the exact same apartments built centuries ago. The old town is not a museum that you wander through and wonder how life might have been. It is a living, breathing city where it doesn’t take much of an imagination of how it must have existed 8 centuries ago. The horses and armor are gone, but travelers pass through as they have for thousands of years buying trinkets and memorabilia to remind them of their time on this ancient island.

We spent almost a week there climbing through the stone-paved streets and visiting the museums that document the centuries of history. It rained a couple of days while we were there but when the sun came out; it was still warm enough to head to the beach in the afternoons. One of the days we took the local bus to the town of Lyndos about an hour south along the coast. There perched on the top of a sheer cliffs that plunge into the ocean are the ruins of a once thriving Greek acropolis.

Sometimes I feel so connected to these people that lived on this earth thousands of years ago. When you visit a city like Rhodes, you realize that not much has changed over the centuries. The signs have gone from hand carved wooden ones to neon lit plastic but shop owners are still hocking their wares, couples are sipping drinks and eating in the sidewalk cafes, children are playing in the fountains and chasing the pigeons, adolescents are checking each other out, old women are kneading bread and birds are still eating the scraps that fall from the tables.